The Fierce Urgency of Now, by Natassia Rozario

I begin writing this entry on Martin Luther King Day and on the eve of Barack Obama’s inauguration. I can’t help but reflect upon my service corps fellowship experiences here in India in the context of these historic events. Images of King and footage from his “I have a dream” speech appear on TV, as the sound of wedding parties and howling stray dogs from the streets filter through the windows of my flat. Crowds gather on a cold winter afternoon in Washington D.C to commemorate the life and legacy of Dr. King, as children in Ahmedabad put down their kites and shopkeepers close their doors for the night. As I get ready to tuck myself into bed, I am struck by the smallness of the world and the immense sense of attachment I feel to my home in the US and my new home in India.

At this moment, the resonance between both worlds is strong. I see parallels between King’s work and that of Saath, the NGO that I have been placed with for the fellowship. During my 10 months in India, I am working with Saath to improve access to affordable primary healthcare among the slum communities of Ahmedabad. Like King, Saath embodies perseverance and imagination in its leadership. Because of its persistence over the past 20 years, Saath has been able to elevate slum communities into “equitable and sustainable human settlements.” The NGO has been a pivotal organization to developing the infrastructure of slums in Ahmedabad, and to enhancing the lives of slum residents via its health, education, and livelihood initiatives. Because of its imagination, the organization has been able to envision a better world for the vulnerable populations of Ahmedabad, a city which has a recent history of communal tensions between Hindus and Muslims. Saath, however, has been able to see beyond the politics and prejudices that have become so deeply entrenched. In this respect, it has been visionary in working with both communities. Saath does not focus on the divisions between the groups and the politics involved, but rather places emphasis on their common humanity. They are not Hindus and Muslims in need of the services, but rather people entitled to the same basic human rights and opportunities to succeed.

Pictures from the Field: Meetings with local teachers,
health field workers, and community leaders.

King’s dream also partly takes root in Ahmedabad. It was here that Gandhi conducted many of his “experiments with truth”, which played a tremendous influence on King’s commitment to non-violence and civil disobedience. It was also here that the great Salt March began, ultimately paving way for India’s independence and also providing a model for America’s civil rights movement.

Despite these links, Ahmedabad also signals that we have a long way to go before the dreams of those like King and Gandhi are to be realized. Ahmedabad is one of the richest cities in India. Amidst the mega malls, marble mansions, and promises of a new superhighway breathe pockets of abject poverty, many of which have been carved along socioeconomic lines. I grapple with how the government and the society as a whole can have the resources and means to advance the equity and harmony of the city, but yet allow wide economic gaps and bitter intolerances to persist. This situation is not unique to Ahmedabad, but also true of many parts of the world in countries enjoying prosperity and those struggling with scarcity alike. When we have the capacity to eliminate human poverty and misery, it is morally unacceptable that certain groups continue to languish and be denied their basic rights. It is not a lack of human resources, but lack of human will and in some cases willful acts rooted in prejudice and hatred that allow such gross inequities to continue. Moreover, as our world becomes more globalized, our proximity to others only increases and makes it impossible to turn a blind eye to the injustices and suffering endured by another.

I finish writing this entry on inauguration day. At this historic moment of transition, I also turn inwards. The words of our new president have inspired me to take a longer and harder look at our world, and have challenged me to examine how I can do my part better. It will not only take the efforts of our world leaders to address the problems that confront our global community, but the collective efforts of us all. As Gandhi observed, “we must be the change we want to see in the world.” My time in India and at Saath also has provided constant reminder of the very simple but often forgotten notion that our self interest and destinies are inextricably linked to that of others.

At this moment, I also reflect on another stage of change in my life. I face a transition point in my time here in India. We are approaching the middle of our fellowship. Last week, the 22 fellows gathered for a midpoint conference at Anandwan, an ashram founded by Baba Amte, a man who championed the cause of Indian lepers and untouchables. The ashram serves as a rehabilitative home for lepers and the handicapped to live their lives with dignity. I was inspired not only by Amte’s lifetime work, but also by my fellow fellows and their commitment to service and ability to treat the challenges of their work with tenacity, curiosity, sensitivity, integrity, and humility. As I move from the first to the second half of the fellowship, I have become increasingly more reflective. I suppose such rumination is typical of midpoints and other transition periods that provide unique vantage points to view the mistakes and achievements made in our past, and the wide, open possibilities of our future. In these brief 5 months, I have come a long way and have learned a vast amount, but I find myself asking questions like: Where did the time go? What do I have to show for it? Can I do better and work harder? Have I taken full advantage of living and working in a country as rich and varied as India?

On this inauguration day, I recognize the hype. A hefty task lies ahead and the expectations are high. I, nonetheless, am taken by the moment. I understand what King meant over 45 years ago when he stood on the steps of Lincoln Memorial to share his dream with the world and described “the fierce urgency of Now.” On this day, January 20, 2009, both the past and future are marked by a man “whose father less than sixty years ago might not have been served at a local restaurant” but who “can now stand before [us] to take a most sacred oath.” Those of our past who fought for a more just, tolerant, and peaceful world are smiling down on us, and those generations of our future will be proud of what we have accomplished. From thousands of miles away, I watch the throngs of people gathered along Pennsylvania Avenue, waving not only American flags but flags from different lands and peoples. It feels as if the pulse of our planet has just skipped a beat.

Gandhi, King, Obama, and the women I met
at a microfinance meeting in Ahmedabad.

- Natassia Rozario

Midpoint at Anandwan, by Sophie Namy

I feel fortunate that it falls on me to write a touchy-feely blog describing our midpoint retreat at Anandwad (Forest of Joy). While life the past few months has been marked by the expected ups and downs and inevitable frustrations, midpoint—and I think I can speak for most of the fellows here—was a time for connection, reflection and rejuvenation.

Over 50 years ago, Baba Amte founded Anandwad to create a living-working community for Indians living with leprosy and other disabilities. This beautiful, peaceful and yet vibrant ashram (over 450 acres) provided an inspiring space for AIF fellows and staff to get together and share our experiences thus far. Outside of somewhat formal presentations from every fellow, we spent our four + days exploring our placements (personally, culturally, professionally) in greater depth, questioning assumptions and/or expectations, listening to one another, offering advice, laughing at the strange predicaments in which we sometimes find ourselves, contrasting the diverse landscapes and people we interact with, and, in general, sharing insights about the realities of “Development” in our respective regions and organizations.

We were also fortunate to have two leaders in the field join us for special presentations — Dr. Ramki Ramakrishnan of SAATHII (Chennai) and Mr. Rajendra Joshi of Saath (Gujarat). And of course we devoted plenty of time to something that our group truly excels at: enjoying each others company. Over delicious, wholesome meals (made from organic ingredients carefully harvested from the grounds of the ashram itself) and while getting to know the artisanal workshops, fields and communities of Anandwad, we continued to come together as this year’s unique cohort of Service Corps fellows.

On a personal note, I spent the train ride back to Delhi reflecting on new perspectives about my work thus far, the opportunities for improvement over the next several months, and how our cumulative experiences through this fellowship relates to the larger story of the NGO sector here in India.

Residents of Anandwad, many of whom unequivocally embody Baba Amte’s message
that “confidence must rest in your wrist” as opposed to the charity of others.

In the last post, my fiancé (Matthew) shared experiences from our placement in the Himalayan foothills of Uttarakhand. Our organization works in several aspects of rural development, including livelihoods, health, technology and education. While professionally we have faced several obstacles and have yet to make real progress implementing our individual projects, we have been exposed to many of the ground realities (often misunderstood in project planning and by larger funding organizations) that make working in this region so challenging. Outside of our work life, the culture of the mountains itself offers many interesting lessons. The following excerpt describes some of the day-to-day in Pithoragarh, the larger of our two field locations.

All Walks Lead to More Chai…
(An Excerpt from the Mountains)

Pithoragarh is certainly not the sleepy mountain town I had expected. In fact by 6AM the traffic has started and by 8 "ba ba black sheep" "three blind mice" and other American favorites are being (loudly) broadcast from an English medium school a few blocks away. This is a transient place, with many laborers commuting daily from Nepal—creating a somewhat tense atmosphere not unlike that of other border towns I have visited. The place embodies an interesting mix of a “big city” (though the population of approximately 100,000 is still relatively small by Indian standards) with a conservative social ethos reminiscent of much smaller towns in rural India: people in the streets frequently stop to touch elders' feet; women do not venture out alone after dark; dalits must worship outside of temples; hierarchical relationships permeate family, social and work relations; festivals provide the majority of community entertainment; and women are constantly fasting for their husbands, children, gods, etc. There is a lot to learn, and people are eager to explain all the idiosyncrasies of their pahari (of the mountains) existence, which is physically isolated from the rest of the country. And although Matt and I no longer inspire the curiosity-bordering-bewilderment that we did upon arriving… all walks still lead to chai. Occasionally we make a conscious effort to set off exploring without entering into anyone's home — and yet a few steps out of town, someone will inevitably call us over, grab us by the hand, and (with surprising strength and purpose) ensure that we sit and join them for tea. This is part of the rhythm of life here, and provides a commonality despite differences in gender, age, nationality, class, religion, etc. And on a cold day in the mountains, what could taste better than a strong cup of milky, spicy chai?

- Sophie Namy

Sadhus we met at two nearby mountain temples,
and me and a local SHG leader after an interview.

Uttarakhand, by Matt French

After three months, my fiancé Sophie and I (we were fortunate to be placed with the same organization) have more or less adjusted to life here – quite a bit slower and more laid back than what we had in the States – and we are beginning to find our place/role within the organization. This experience has helped me realize that there is no substitute for time. Obviously you want to hit the ground running; we hit the ground and didn’t really even roll. We have spent a lot of this initial period feeling out the organization and looking into our positionality. It has been frustrating, but a good introduction into the challenges of international work. We had, and still have, a lot of questions:

- How do we walk the fine line between having personal space and being antisocial?

- Is our NGO properly serving the community? What are the alternatives?

- How can we best serve the community?

- When is it our responsibility to communicate our concerns and when should we just
shut up?

It is a challenge, but one for which we feel equipped. We made a conscious effort to focus on the positive elements of this placement, as opposed to the things we dislike. The staff here enthusiastically welcomed us (they continue to be gracious and helpful) and we have a great amount of freedom. Up until now, we have done a lot of proposal/grant writing and report editing, and are constructing a new website. This kind of work is something concrete we can offer and a responsibility we are more than willing to fulfill; involving us in real programmatic work, however, does not seem to be a priority for our NGO. While this is frustrating, we have had the opportunity to accompany staff on several field visits/trainings in the surrounding rural areas. These are interesting forays into generally unseen areas of the country.

After such outings we are able to provide feedback on what we observed – this seems to be taken seriously by some in the organization and will hopefully be used to inform future endeavors. Some anxieties still remain, but time has provided us with a greater understanding of our situation and some strategies to deal with it. We also have some good prospects on the horizon – I will soon be meeting with local government officials about a small hygiene intervention and Sophie should begin work on a female feticide project in January. Ham dekhengue!

Life outside the office has been more fulfilling. We have had ample time to explore the hills, visit pilgrimage sites and other mountain towns in the state, read, write, practice yoga/meditation, etc.

We have also formed some nice relationships – just the other night we cooked a pasta dinner (quite a novelty in this town) for our friends and their two children. I am a bit snobby about pasta (as Sophie says); I hate to pour a fabulous sauce over “macaroni and cheese” style elbow noodles, but it turned out pretty well.

We have also had the opportunity to get away from the things of man. In late October Sophie and I went on a trek deep into the Himalayan wilderness. Our destination put us close to the Tibetan border, which unfortunately became an issue. We had to take the path less traveled, as we couldn’t get a permit for the more regulated route (i.e., we took the road that had no India Tibet Border Police checkpoints). We hired a guide and a porter, as it was late in the season and foul weather threatened. We had never trekked with any assistance before, but it turned out to be a smart and enjoyable decision. We were resolved to make it as equal as possible, so everyone carried the same amount of weight and, after some pestering, they let us do our share of the meal preparation and chores. We felt safe with them, or at least a hell of a lot safer than we would have by ourselves. The trail was peppered with rockslides; in some parts the path was just gravel and loose dirt about six inches wide, sitting at about a 45-degree angle. It wouldn’t be so bad if it was in your back yard, but looking down a sheer 300-foot drop onto unfriendly jagged rocks, made it a harrowing experience. Other than the rock slides and the cold (we were camping at 3,600 meters and the running water was frozen over by morning) things were perfect. We ate good and simple food; saw awe inspiring views; got used to walking all day with heavy packs; and had some peaceful quiet time. We were out in the hinterlands over Sophie’s birthday and it was a very special time and place to be with her.

As for our current living situation, I spend the bulk of my time in one of the field offices, while Sophie can usually be found at headquarters; we are, however, often together. The initial tour of my living accommodations had us worried, but we successfully turned the cottage into a cozy little refuge (after quite a bit of cleaning and renovating). The house has a comfy bedroom, a large kitchen, and we converted the front sitting room into a meditation/yoga space.

The back door looks out onto terraced fields and beautiful Himalayan hills. The morning and evenings are peaceful and increasingly chilly (its at about 5000 feet).

The only drawback is that the bathroom/bathing facility is outside; well, it’s enclosed, but where there should be windows, there are none. Also, the roof does not connect with the wall, allowing a wide and windy gap. It has no hot water or shower and the water we do get only flows from 4am – 8am (got to get up early and fill up the buckets!). There are huge spiders too. They like to hang out near the light switches and wait for unsuspecting human hands. Apparently, they are not dangerous… unless they bite you or you eat them! But hell, I love it down here!

Hindi is going well. I knew only the basics upon arrival, but have developed my skills enough to get around and have some friendly chats. I don't get into any deep philosophical discussions yet, but, as people around here are fond of saying, "practice makes a man perfect!" As we are learning Hindi, the staff members at our NGO are also improving their English proficiency. When enough interested people are in the office, we give an informal class. It's fun and interactive—a lot of laughing, loud talk, and, of course, learning.

I came to India for the first time in 2003 as a traveler; the Service Corps experience has been much different and in many ways more rewarding. It has given me a chance to really engage with the culture and make more lasting personal ties. It has also afforded me the opportunity to give back – to make an impact. And while it is slow going, I have faith that this placement will ultimately be beneficial for Sophie and I, our NGO, and, most importantly, the marginalized rural villagers of this region.

-Matt French