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The W.J. Clinton Fellowship for Service in India Blog: January 2010

Monday, January 25, 2010

Development: progression of human societies

What are we working towards?

What is development? Starting from the time I began working with marginalized populations and now further amplified with each and everyday’s awakening to the majestic snow covered Himalayan peaks, this question has been an ever present discourse of enormous proportion for me. I suppose at the present moment I would explain “Development” as: An umbrella term widely used to describe efforts toward the progress of human societies inclusive of advances in the expansion of land, technology, business, international relations, sustainability, and aid to disenfranchised communities with a sector comprised of varied institutions and organizations ranging from NGO’s to Banks (both state and private) to Governments.

Efforts towards building clinics, treating illnesses, fixing roads, providing microfinance schemes, distributing technology, creating jobs, constructing schools, etc are often individually tossed under the general classification of development work for impovered populations.

But is this enough?

Is it enough to build a HIV testing facility for Female Sex Workers without raising awareness about the prevention and transmission of the virus, or without providing guidance for job security once their ability to be involved in the “flesh trade” has expired, or without providing legal action for those illegally trafficked against their will? Even if a clinic exits with extended services and care i.e. legal protection, self help groups, condom distribution, sex education, etc, will this be able to protect these women from the structural violence or a system of inequalities that prevent social equity and access to available resources and ultimately their survival? Although, collectively these efforts aid in the livelihoods of underserved communities, what is actual development within the communities and target populations that our programs operate?

I have continued to learn through my work in India that in the context of serving the poor, to refer to development as a growth in the size of a community or a simple increase of financial gains within a target population would not be correct, though these are often presented as solid examples of a development within society. It has become clear to me that development should be looked at as increases in strength, capacity, and complexity within a community. It is social change, where a community becomes more complex, adding institutions, increasing its collective power, and changing qualitatively in its organization.

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Lavina Shahani is working in Uttarakhand on a Targeted HIV Intervention for Female Sex Workers with KAGAS, a rural livelihoods NGO.

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Garhwali Morning

Before the first adhan or alarm, you wake. Even the warmest blood cowers from this cold, but Sirius paces the Greater Dog along the horizon, invigorating. Shuffling feet interrupt the December silence until ten settle as statues in AnandJi's room. He is your mentor and he opens meditation:

Watch your thoughts.”

Thoughts: they shroud the will, burden concentration. Your mind already strays.

"Sit relaxed, in any comfortable posture.  Your body is straight but relaxed."

After meditation, everyone gathers to study and socialize, blanketed and shawled. You will join the bundled litter, comfortable in company, together.

"Feel the weight of your body on the ground.  Feel your whole body like a baby sitting in the lap of mother Earth."

Within your closed eyelids, the sun beckons below the eastern peaks as a crackle of kindling lures all to the kitchen. Mansura plucks radish, spinach, and cilantro from the fields; Jyoti bathes them in runoff from the melting snows; Shanti tosses them in a wok; Garima douses them in masala. Children deliver fresh buffalo milk and to boil it, AnandJi hews a trunk that days ago you trekked to fell.

"Sit like a rock, rooted and immovable."

A bell rings hollow—school.  Teachers spring down the stone path as students climb from the villages. Everyone races the second bell and the start of mindfulness exercises, first standing outdoors then inside, seated.  Rigid, teachers model proper posture, essential against those furtively scanning the room. Teachers join APV to evolve through mindfulness; oxymoronically, their introspection is always displayed for the students.  After meditation, the tabla bag unzips launching a frenzy. Singing, swaying, and drumming dominate the assembly before kids run to their classes.

"You can feel your breath. Now see how many parts of the body can you feel at the same time."

Teachers animate an enthusiasm for learning through practical experiences.  To study botany students go to the plants.  Churning in ascent, toes shed stinging wind, frosted rocks, errant branches.  Students, jellybean-capped with mismatched mittens, chatter despite heaving lungs. Atop the ridge lies a grassy field, icy peaks of the Chinese border visible to the east. The life cycle and health benefits of rose hips are today's lesson. The class submerges beside you in the thicket, thorns bloodying skin and tearing clothes. Curiosity counters pain, and you return bearing both fruit and dialogue.  Questions about plant structure, function, and utility will dominate the week.

"Be as effortless as possible. You are just observing what is taking place.  The body is sitting effortlessly. You are just a witness."

In the afternoon you observe the longest-tenured teacher, Jaya, direct a classroom of the impoverished, malnourished, at-risk, and orphaned. Colored beads and dramatization engage fractions through sharing; students count, divide, trade, and donate their beads within the framework of a mock village dispute. Attentions lapse but Jaya, with deftness belying the task's complexity, reclaims them quickly: “Close your eyes, sit, watch your breath.” The students meditate. When eyes reopen the lesson continues, focus regained.

To live innocently is to live without the boundary of ego; to live without ego is to live in harmony with the whole.”

After school hours begin in the kitchen. To absorb the recipes, you help daily despite a faculty rotation. Less satisfying tasks—chopping onions, peeling garlic—are often yours, but you work faithfully to absorb the atmosphere as well. After a Vedic chant, the scrum called dinner, and the necessary cleaning, everyone scurries to the fire. Insufficient electricity barely ignites the filaments, so tonight your English lesson devolves into candlelit storytelling.

And now, in the end, let us pray for the well-being of all creatures:  May all creatures move from darkness to light.”

You do pray, for the sustenance of the community and the happiness of the children.  You pray for growth, both for yourself and the philosophy so that others might too grow.  You pray for those surrounding statues, a family whose loves you reciprocate, a family who shares both the brutal trials and exhilarating joys that fall daily in Garhwal.  

Another session lost in thoughts, never-ending.  Still, they have broken a smile, invisible in the unlit room.

Open your eyes now.”

Flex the ankles, stretch the legs, roll the neck.

Turn on the light.”

The statues shudder as shawls unravel and the room empties.  You close your eyes, inhale gently, exhale vigorously, and enjoy your first clear moment of the morning.  It is 4:30am; a day, already begun, begins. 

Charles Iannuzzi works on curriculum and syllabus development at APV School in Anjanisain, Uttarakhand.

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Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Chennai

It all started by running in heels.

I spent my first few days in Chennai horrified by the danger in which adolescent boys and young men put themselves \to catch a bus! They run along-side a moving bus, grab hold of the door frame, and are air borne for several seconds before landing on the bus and scrambling to make way for the fellows behind them about to do the same. Internally, I promised myself never to take such a risk. I valued my life and the possibility of being trampled by traffic was less than enticing..

Chennai, day 4: Nicole and I left Spencer's Mall exhausted after a long day at work and exploring the city. Just a little longer, I tell my aching back as we shuffle down the long bus platform. There it is, bus 23C. In 20 yards I can put this bag down. Suddenly, the bus started to leave.

NO!!

We were going to catch this bus. Nicole immediately understood my determination and ran ahead to the bus’s rear entry. Run run run. Grab. Leap - SUCCESS! A glance to the back of the bus showed that Nicole had also made the jump successfully. OMG, I had actually boarded a moving bus…in heels.

Since that first welcome, the bus has become my faithful companion, never failing to offer a small adventure or insight into the minor miracles of South Indian life.

For example:

o The miracle of buying bus tickets: Remember Telephone? Kids play at birthday parties, sitting in a circle and pass around a secret message. The game is successful if the message is the same at the end as it was in the beginning. Indian bus passengers play this game daily.. When the bus is too crowded for the conductor to walk down the aisle and collect fare, which is often, bus patrons pass each others’ bus fare down to the conductor and simultaneously “telephone” the corresponding passenger’s destination. The appropriate ticket and any change is passed back accordingly – sometimes through forty hands, to its owner. No one steals, no one cheats – and no one says thank you. It seems that one’s participation in this act is regarded as a duty, not as a favor, and therefore, since you would and most likely will do the same for the other person at some point this month, thanking them is unnecessary.

o The miracle of honesty: This sense of trust and duty also applies to baggage. If all the seats are taken on a bus, you should hand your bag to the nearest seated aunty to hold for you until you get off or get a seat. Otherwise, your bag takes up valuable standing space. You can have a lap top, an ipod, and a hefty chunk of change in your wallet, and you may rest assured that it will all still be there when you take your bag back.

o Poo is the best remedy for a sweaty, smelly bus. South Indian women put "poo" or flowers in their hair. Jasmine is most common, but roses and a yellow flower called manjal kanakambarum (no idea what that is in English – it might be related to marigolds?) are also used. And they smell AWESOME.

o Chennai to the rescue: The Tamilian sense of community is especially evident when things go wrong. One day the bus flew over a speed bump, rendering us airborne for several seconds. The - rather large - aunty sitting next to me hurt her chest on the chair back in front of her on the way down. Instantly, my half the bus - about 50-70 people - was involved in either trying to help this woman, screaming at the conductor for the driver's recklessness, or trying to keep the commotion from getting out-of-hand. That would never happen in New York.

o Who needs bars? Chennai’s bar scene is minimal, so the bus is the place to meet people! I’ve met quite a few interesting characters on the bus – some of which have actually become friends! My most significant bus friend, a college student studying naval engineering, recently got me hooked on the Twilight movies…I’m still not sure if he’s a positive influence...

o Small small things: One day, a man sat next to me on the bus. (In retrospect, this was strange, since I was sitting on the women’s side.) He turned out to be a student at IIT Madras from Delhi who, unlike most northerners, loved Chennai. "There are small small things to enjoy here! Like women with flowers in their hair, these traditional dresses, families roaming around on the beach…" He's right. Chennai lacks the hip night life that Delhi and Bombay boast, and North Indians that come are often bored by Chennai. But the city has a magic all its own, the most vibrant of which is seen in the smallest things: paper stars hung for Christmas, the chai-wallah that knows and expects me every morning, a free ride from an auto-wallah in the rain, and my eleven-year old neighbor who belts out Michael Jackson tunes a little too early in the morning, and of course, leaping on to a moving bus in heels. :-)

Posted by Elyse Ahmad